🔗 Share this article Kimchi, Made in China: The Way South Korea's National Dish Faces a Price War Domestically. The distinct scent of spicy pepper flakes permeates the air at a production facility in Incheon. Inside, salted cabbage rests in large metal vats during the first phase of a time-honored process. "Kimchi has become a world food from Korea, but this makes no sense," says one producer. "This market has been captured." The difficulty stems from a increasing import-export gap. South Korea brings in more kimchi than it exports, with more affordable Chinese-produced products dominating in the local market. A Costly Difference Chinese kimchi is priced for restaurants at around 1,700 won per kilogram. However, Korean-made versions average about 3,600 won per kilogram—more than double the price. In the first ten months of the year, the value of imports stood at $159 million, predominantly from China, while exports were valued at $137 million. More Than Just Cabbage Kimchi is a fundamental part of culinary tradition on the Korean peninsula. Its definition covers much more than the fiery napa cabbage most familiar to international diners. There are more than 150 documented varieties, made with radish, cucumber, spring onions and other vegetables. They are seasoned with mixtures of pepper flakes, garlic, ginger and fermented seafood paste. The fermentation process produces beneficial lactic acid bacteria, bolstering its status as a health food. Changing Consumption Historically, families made large quantities together during kimjang, a practice designated by UNESCO. Yet, consumption patterns are evolving. One-person homes have increased dramatically since 2000, now accounting for more than 36% of all households. Consequently, a declining number prepare it domestically. Instead, it is increasingly consumed ready-made or while eating out, where it is provided complimentary with every meal. Asking payment for such a basic side dish would be inconceivable. The Producer's Plight "If you avoid losses and stay afloat, that’s already fortunate," says one manufacturer. "For many of us over the past decade, we haven’t been able to invest in facilities." An Emotional Staple Economic realities mean that cost, rather than provenance or method, is now the primary consideration. One producer who has run a business for 29 years canceled plans for expansion years ago as foreign kimchi became popular. "Is it right to use imported kimchi when this is a food that embodies our heritage?" he says. "It’s truly heartbreaking." Compounding Pressures The pressures are worsened by the climate crisis, which is affecting napa cabbage agriculture. Summer cultivation has become increasingly difficult in usual highland growing areas, causing market prices to sometimes more than double from one year to the next. Authorities and producers are working on hardier cabbage types and improved storage systems, but industry groups question whether these steps can offset the pressures. Approximately three-quarters of South Korea’s kimchi manufacturers are very small enterprises with four or fewer employees, relying on handcrafted techniques that struggle to compete with large-scale production in China. Seeking Solutions The industry is trying to respond, though with limited tools. A subsidy program offers restaurants a subsidy to switch back to domestically produced kimchi. There are calls for increased scrutiny of declared import prices for kimchi. Government initiatives include voluntary labelling schemes for restaurants, farm aid for cabbage growers, and research to lengthen kimchi’s storage time for export. The Final Defense In the end, many believe that quality remains South Korea’s strongest defence. "Korean kimchi has a distinct flavor," says an expert. "That cannot be replicated."